Go Wae West

Genna-Wae West prances into The Press Club on a wet, cold Umhlanga morning, saying a cheery “hello” and “hi” to nearly every second person in the café. She spots me and her whole face glows. “You’re wearing my dress,” she claps. That, I was – the playful, striped dress I had pulled out of
my closet that morning was from Genna’s ‘Wae West’ label…but that’s not all there is to this quirky beaut. Over a hot chocolate and cappuccino, I got to hear her story…

“My family has always been involved in the clothing industry, but nobody thought I could handle the stress of it,” Genna pulls her trench coat off, revealing a bright orange dress and thick grey scarf. “But I had been obsessed with superheroes from a very young age – I have over 500 comic books in my collection. I wanted to design costumes for the characters, so I did. And that’s how it started.”

She did a course in desktop publishing and started working for Roger Deare of Ecko Ultd clothing. Within four years, she had climbed the corporate clothing ladder to become a senior merchandiser – not an easy feat. “It was a difficult journey, and one throughout which I had to stay hungry. You have to work your backside off to climb that fast. I appreciated working for Roger; people might think he is difficult, but I gained an invaluable amount of knowledge from him. He was a mentor” Genna soon moved into branding, which meant she gave up the travelling element associated with being a merchandiser – the first of many sacrifices she made in business. She worked with respected labels including David and Goliath, Bad Girl and Gotcha Girl, cultivating a unique brand and identity for each one.
“Each brand was a challenge I relished. It was pleasing to see their tangible growth and development,” she said.

It was around this time Genna started dabbling in fashion herself. Coming off some work for the Temptation lingerie brand, Genna began designing underwear and lingerie. “That was a defining moment for me,” she reflects. “I’d always been seen as a prude, so working with lingerie allowed me to express a side of me that was confident and without awkwardness.”

She started with two seamstresses in her house, while still at Bad Girl as a consultant. Connecting with the KZN Fashion Council gave Genna the boost she needed to participate in Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, under her newly established label: Wae West. “But looking back, the range I put out was not the range I wanted. It wasn’t me…I’m outrageous and I am fond of anything alternate.”

Wae West began picking up slowly, but Genna experienced first-hand how difficult it is for young, South African designers to break into the clothing industry. “It’s a struggle to start your range off, and then once you have your clothes nobody wants to stock them. And all you want is that starting point. So, most designers choose to start at markets, or co-op stores,” Genna says. When she saw an unoccupied space in Windermere, the wheels in Genna’s head started to turn. The SAM – South African Made Store was officially born. “The idea was to stock clothes and décor items from South African designers, made in South Africa, with South African resources and materials,” Genna
explains. “We started off with 14 designers. It was difficult to find them, and then keep them…I think creatives don’t believe in themselves enough. They have to be pushed to take a risk,” she pauses. “As a creative myself, I find that risks are no longer a question for me. I push boundaries every day.”

The store, now based in the Umhlanga Centre, has pioneered a ‘proudly local’ designer movement, now stocking threads from 30 local brands, including Rooi Rok Bokkie, Azora and Cookie Cutter. Her own brand is also stocked and she now has a factory with four full-time staff including her former housekeeper, who she trained as a cutter. “I can honestly say that we’ve put blood, sweat and a bucket of tears into SAM, and I want it to just keep growing.” And she has not done it alone; Genna credits singer Shannon Hope for aiding her creative vision, her old friend Matt Vermaak who handmade all SAM’s shelving and change rooms, and her brother Grant, who gave her the financial boost she needed to open the store. “And, of course, my husband Shaun. He is a continuous source of inspiration,” Genna shows me her bespoke wedding ring.

Throughout her journey, Genna has picked up several valuable lessons in business, one of which she shares with me: “The toughest part of starting your own line of business, is the loneliness. You feel isolated and frustrated. The only way to overcome this is to know when to ask for help, and know who you can trust with your frustrations. Above all, know what you need to do to make your dreams a reality…then, just get it done.” Genna smiles widely as she tells me that she is happy… for now. “I’m impatient,” she laughs. “I want to have seven branches of SAM one day!”